7/13/2018

Summer Dress along Painted Portrait Dress Day THREE















OK-- we are now at Step #7.

You'll be clipping the seam allowance around the neckline curve up to the edgestitching to allow a better fabric lay once turned out again. However things get tricky with the next sentence :
 "rather than clipping off the seam allowances at the top corners of the Back Yokes, fold the top seam allowance down against the wrong side of the corner, then fold the center seam allowance in over that, hold them in place together as you poke just the corner to its right side." 

That was a VERY long sentence and I had to read it at least 45 times to understand what she's saying here. But that's me. . . and I sometimes forget what I'm doing when I'm doing it. So------- let's do this with a video.









The second part of Step 7 is turning everything right sides out. Here's another video:








Step 8

It's important you marked the starting/stop points --and sew keeping the back yoke facings (linings) free. Repeat again with the back yoke facings, keeping the main back yokes free (this is step 9). Here's another video: (note I sewed the main yokes first, then the lining).









Steps 10 & 11

No video for this, it's pretty clear. We will sew the top edge of the front MAIN panel with the bottom edge of the front yoke RST. You already gathered your front MAIN panel, but adjust it now to fit the yoke either more gathers or less. Press seam allowance up towards the wrong side of yoke. I LIKE TO finish my seam here with a quick serge or pinking shears cut, it's not mandatory because we will hide it later, but still -- extra insurance.


Repeat these steps with back MAIN panel and back yoke.


Step 13

Sewing the bias tape to the armholes.




Video:






Part two:






TIP:











We will stop here for this week. Next are steps 14-17 and then finishing the dress! In the pattern we are skipping the sleeves -- so even though it looks like a lot is left, there really isn't. Stay motivated! :D



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7/07/2018

Sewing with specialty Vinyls



 


Sewing vinyl is so fun -- just check out these colors!
I mean H E L L O!

I carry these in my Etsy shop but let's talk first before you click over. My goal is to make YOU successful in what you decide to make. If I'm selling something, it has to be LEGIT. It has to work. It can't be too fussy or complicated, period.


Iridescent vinyl


I love sewing with vinyl! For over 10 years I've been using it in my makes to get that sought after look of modern pOp / funkylicious / edgy-cool-ness I adore. 

I've had some real winners and some real losers at the end of it all, so I'd like to take a minute and let you in on what I've learned. These are tips I use daily to help me succeed in sewing something that is professional looking enough that people don't actually "know" I made it. Ya get me? 














The iridescent vinyl I carry comes to mind when I think of using tips. While super DUPER pretty, she is a touch finicky. BUT it can be done! Thou shalt conquer!!!  -- It sounded vaguley Roman or something, I don't know...help. 

By the way I have to say "va-goo" when I try to speall vague. English is weird.

Squirrel




#1: If purchasing iridescent vinyl understand you will have to warm it before turning right sides out or risk lots of puckers and pin-pricky thing-ma-jigs. I use a hair dryer. My husband used a heat gun. Such are Men, no?



A little crinkle never did any harm.        lol      






Better yet-- use my tutorials and/ or patterns that DON'T call for turning, but make it a   F E A T U R E.  

For example the pockets on front and back of my Essentials Tote:

It's not magic keeping those sunglasses in- it's clear vinyl! Yipp Yipp yippee!





My new bag pattern "Coffee House bag" (coming soon) features a vinyl flap --no turning out. It would be PERFECT for iridescent or colorful vinyl. 



Join the newsletter if you want dibs on launch dates and savings alerts. Don't worry, I email maybe twice a month. I figure that's not too annoying.



Same thing (no turning) for the Bliss Yoga bag pattern with the vinyl end cap (optional but super fun).









Dayna @daynasjourney went ALL OUT with hers making a trinket-y style case to fit inside. 
I'll be whipping that tutorial up for you soon. 










#2 You MUST use a teflon foot for the best sewing experience. Tape underneath a normal foot is ok if you're making one thing, but not if you're planning on making two or more. LMAO! No for real.

.....and please for the love of all that is natural in this world, buy a quality foot meant for your machine NOT an impostor.  

(I did it thinking I was being rebellious --- it did not go well. Much the same as my teen years.)





#3 Read this quick blog post here with tools I use that help a ton. Plus a link to a video from my Facebook page where I talked about it IRL. You can always ask me questions! I love to talk vinyl. 

---Wonder clips are meant for vinyl -- not pins. Those holes are forever Yo!

---Use quality thread that doesn't break -I prefer Gutermann all purpose thread (not 100% cotton!)

---You may need to use a denim needle (bigger punch).



#4 HAVE some dang patience! This is not a race. Anything worth doing takes some practice. Watch this fun 6 second video that actually took years off my life to make.  Bahahaaha~











Want to see the "real" in that video above? Proceed with caution:












---If all of the above fails, and you've done your meditation and said your positive vibes mantras and it's still going to sh*t, ---grab your credit card and run to the nearest sewing machine dealer to test out quality heavy metal (not plastic machines) OR industrial machines. 

You will never look back, promise.   





  I look at it this way: my sanity is worth W A Y more than a thousand dollars! Just ask my husband bahahahahaha. 


Oh you know what I'm sayin', don't even play!




Juki DDL8700 Lockstitch Straight Stitch Sewing Machine w/ Servo Motor, Stand, Lamp DDL-8700.Assembly required. DIY

Photo of Juki industrial which many of my friends swear by.

Yes they actually swear "Oh my gizzle Natalie it's so truckin' awesome to sew on, it's better than any other piece of sh*zzle machine you can imagine"...... Ok so not actually direct quotes but you get the idea. Right?    


Here I'm attaching handles with a Rivet Press:
(Fun and Fast)









Look at all these vinyl tutorials -- many are great for beginners and will work well with any of the vinyl I carry in my shop -- even iridescent vinyl if you warm it before turning.  ;)  









If you have questions please contact me! 
I love hearing from you.






7/06/2018

Summer Dress-a-Long Painted Portrait Dress DAY TWO










If you're new here, pop over to the DAY ONE post here and have a read. Yes it's long, but there is a lot of information packed in there you won't want to miss! 


Let's begin sewing. The pattern is cut out, fabric washed & dried, size somewhat sorted (hopefully) with either a mock up muslin OR guestimation that "this" size will fit according to measurement guideline.



READ the important note at the start of the pattern.

1.  *If you're making a pieced yoke, sew the strips together now- just like piecing a quilt, right sides together, then press open.

We are skipping sleeves for the sew along. 

WE ARE making the pockets. If you wish to omit them, you can skip the next few steps.








 *PREPARE POCKETED SIDE PANELS*  ---is the heading in pattern.

Here is my video showing the process- remember RIGHT sides together. My cloud fabric is wrong side facing viewer here.



Step #1 video:






 Step #2 video:








Step #3 video: You'll then attach to the side panels as per instructions.





Finishing up with two completed side panels. Set aside for now. 




*Prepare Front Panel & Back Panel*

Kind of confusing that these instructions are here, but let's carry on. The PANEL is the front part of the main dress, and the back part of the main dress. NOT the pieces on your bust. 




1. Create gathering in your choice of method on top edge of front panel between gather here dots on pattern. (You marked the notches and dots and everything right? If not, pull that pattern out and do it now.)  Repeat to gather back panel.  

To gather I use the cheater method by turning up the tension on my Bernina and the stitch length all the way, then sew normally. It will gather the fabric in most cases.
See my Metamorphic post on gathering here. Set aside.



 *Assemble sleeveless Dress*

We now will sew the bodice front to the back bodice (called YOKE) at the shoulder seams. 

I have to use a seam gauge to mark seam allowances first or else I tend to sew them too small. Shoulder seams must be strong. :)










Repeat for facings (lining pieces).



Place these two sets RST and pin around neckline.









Sew along the dotted line.





Now we arrive at Step 5.

Temporarily pull the inner and outer layers away from each other, wrong side of the facings against the seam allowance and edgestitch the neckline keeping out yokes free. This helps keep it in place while wearing the dress.

Look at the diagrams in the pattern for a bit. 








Step #6 Video






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Ok -- deep breathe. You did it or are going to do it -- take it one step at a time and know there is no rush. Anytime is the right time. This post will remain here always, or at least until Aliens zap us with an electronic pulse taking out the grid.

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Naw just kidding, they won't do that. They'll come here and be like E.T.   

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This should feel empowering. It's not a competition and definitely not a rush. Nobody is gettin' a trophy for being done first, because actually I get the trophy. Bahahahahhahahahaha 


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See you next Friday July 13th ----for more. 
(OMG FREAK OUT it's Friday the 13th!)


Working ahead is totally fine BTW.





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It's inclusive and positive and YOUR tribe. 
We want you there with us! 

















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